Perched on the orderly, majestic terraces of the Costers d’Ordal, overlooking the Subirats region of Barcelona, is Cal Gori. 

Thirty-five hectares of forest extend to eighteen hectares of vines, a hectare of olive trees, and several fields left fallow, serving as pasture for horses. A farmhouse situated at the foot of the terraces dates back to the 15th century, with historical records showing it belonged to a wealthy family as early as 1484. It continued to function as a farmhouse until 1964, when it was nearly abandoned by its then-owner, a mayor of Subirats during the Spanish Republic who did not work the land but would make wine from the grapes of the farmers who did, transporting it to Barcelona in a cart pulled by a white horse. 

The landscape is a study of mementos, of people passing through here over the centuries, leaving their mark. Today, that person is Mar Capdevila, who is producing vibrant, captivating wines within these walls. 

By the time she and her partner Lluis moved in, no one had been living at Cal Gori for forty-five years. As it turned out, the former mayor of Subirats had been the great uncle of Lluis’s father, and also the man who married into the wealthy family who owned the house. Mar and Lluis had the good fortune to inherit the regal structure and the sprawling land that accompanied it. They started making wine here in 2016, with Mar taking over as sole winemaker in 2023. The project was christened Enlaire (aloft, suspended in the air) to indicate that new life had taken flight. 

The vineyards, some of the most peaceful and pastoral we’ve ever walked, are planted to Macabeu, Xarello, Garnatxa negra, Ull de llebre, Carignan, Trepat, Monastrell and Parellada on soils of clay and limestone, rich in marine fossils. Seven hectares are used for her own production. The rest of the land is devoted to olives, orchard fruits and grapes sold to larger wineries. It is also enjoyed by the two cats, four dogs, two horses and two donkeys who call Cal Gori home. 

Mar’s wines are rooted in nostalgia for artifacts that tell the history of the place — an old-fashioned Zippo, a homeopathy box — as well as the stories of those who currently reside here: Mar’s earrings, her husband’s headphones, her son’s firecracker, a toy belonging to her daughter. Future artifacts, suspended in the limbo of time. The past animates the present. 

ENLAIRE VINS

Country: Spain

Region: Alt Penedès

Sub-region or Appellation: Subirats

Winemakers: Mar Capdevila & Lluís Raventós

Viticulture: Biodynamic

Terroir: Clay, limestone

Size: 18ha

Website: enlairevins.cat
Instagram: @enlaire_vins

ENLAIRE :: Petard de l’Aran

Vintage: 2024
Varieties: Xarel-lo (70%), Parellada (30%)
Style: White Wine
ABV: 11%
Region: Alt Penedès
Sub-Region or Appellation: Subirat
Viticulture: Biodynamic
Soils: Clay, limestone
Yeasts: Indigenous yeasts
Vinification: Grapes are hand-picked, destemmed, and fermented on the skins for 15 days in stainless steel.
Aging: Stainless steel
Fining or Filtering: None
Sulfur: Minimal at bottling

ENLAIRE :: Estoig Homepàtic

Vintage: 2021
Varieties: Macabeu
Style: Skin-Contact Wine
ABV: 10.5%
Region: Alt Penedès
Sub-Region or Appellation: Subirats
Viticulture: Biodynamic
Soils: Clay, limestone
Yeasts: Indigenous yeasts
Vinification: Grapes are hand-picked, destemmed, and fermented on the skins for 16 days in stainless steel and amphora. The wine is bled off the skins without pressing.
Aging: Stainless steel and amphora
Fining or Filtering: None
Sulfur: Minimal at bottling

ENLAIRE :: Auriculars d’en Lluis

Vintage: 2024
Varieties: Xarel-lo (47%), Macabeu (35%), Garnatxa Negra (10%), Ull de Llebre (8%)
Style: Rosé Wine
ABV: 10%
Region: Alt Penedès
Sub-Region or Appellation: Subirats
Viticulture: Biodynamic
Soils: Clay, limestone
Yeasts: Indigenous yeasts
Vinification: Grapes are hand-picked. Macabeu is destemmed and macerates for 5 days on the skins. Xarel-lo is direct-pressed and added to the same tank. 15-day maceration/fermentation of Garnatxa is added two weeks later, and 15-day carbonic macerated Ull de Llebre is added two days after that.
Aging: Stainless steel
Fining or Filtering: None
Sulfur: Minimal at bottling