Pensive, introspective, yet prone to sudden bursts of enthusiasm, Sylvain Bock the person is much like the wines he makes. His wines project a careful complexity that is belied by their playful labels and Sylvain’s propensity to experiment through co-ferments and delayed releases if certain barrels take detours he does not expect. 

 Nestled in a rugged corner of the Ardèche in Alba-la-Romaine, Sylvain was one of the last winemakers we visited in the Before Time, and certainly the last we joined for some spontaneous outdoor recreation.

He clearly loves this part of the world he has chosen to call home — which he describes as the North of the South of France — not only for its terroir of limestone and basalt, but also for the community he has found there among other winemakers such as Gerald Oustric of Le Mazel (who served as his ‘lightning rod’ for natural winemaking), Jérôme Jouret, Les Deux Terres and Anders Frederik Steen. 

His position at the “northern limit of the South” influences virtually every decision he makes: from extracting the delicate flower aromas at the “northern limit” of Carignan (in his Bascule) to choosing Chardonnay (à la fraîche...) as a variety that has proven resilient in the face of climate change, which is turning much of the winemaking world into “the South.”

Cover photo by Joe Woodhouse for Beattie & Roberts.

SYLVAIN BOCK

Country: France

Region: Rhône Valley

Sub-region or Appellation: Ardèche

Winemakers and Owners: Sylvain Bock

Viticulture: Certified organic

Terroir: Volcanic limestone and basalt

Size: 7 ha

Harvest: Labor Facts

Website: https://www.facebook.com/sylvain.bock
Instagram: @sylvainbock

SYLVAIN BOCK :: Ne fais pas sans blanc

Half-and-half Grenache blanc and Chardonnay from 32 yr old vines on clay/limestone and basalt soils. Each parcel harvested in a single morning late August by 12 vendangeurs. Pressed direct, fermented separately, then blended a month later for élevage of 10 months in stainless. A luxuriously rich white wine with a strong line of acidity to balance it all out. A versatile bottle for any occasion.

Vintage: 2021/2022
Grapes: 50% Grenache Blanc, 50% Chardonnay
Style: White Wine
Alcohol Content: 12.5% ABV
Region: Rhone Valley
Sub-Region or Appellation: Ardèche
Viticulture: Certified Organic, Biodynamic
Age of Vines: 32 years
Soils: basalt and limestone clay
Elevation: 230 m
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: Grenache blanc and Chardonnay are direct pressed separately and vinified separately, then combined after 1 month of fermentation
Aging: 10 months in stainless steel
Fining or Filtering: None
SO2: None

SYLVAIN BOCK :: Ella m’a serré

Sylvain’s first ever cuvée de macération! 75% Sauvignon Blanc, 25% Chardonnay, 7 days on the skins. Aromas of apricot, peach, white flowers, and almond sing in this complex orange wine, named for Ella Fitzgerald and the glorious process of maceration (elle a macérée).

Vintage: 2022
Grapes: 75% Sauvignon Blanc, 25% Chardonnay,
Style: Skin-Contact Wine
Alcohol Content: 13% ABV
Region: Rhone Valley
Sub-Region or Appellation: Ardèche
Viticulture: Certified Organic
Age of Vines: 30 and 50 years old
Soils: basalt and limestone
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: 7 day maceration on the skins
Aging: Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay are each vinified separately. Each undergoes 1 week of maercation, followed by fermentation in stainless steel tank (sauvignon blanc) and fiberglass tank (chardonnay) and blending once each cépage has completed its fermentation.
Fining or Filtering: None
SO2: None

SYLVAIN BOCK :: Neck

A tribute to the neck of Sceautres, a huge volcanic rock looming over this special geological pocket of basalt and limestone. Harvested by hand in small boxes, the Grenache is picked at perfect ripeness before undergoing 2-3 weeks of carbonic maceration and 8 months in tank. Fruity and structured with a spicy, savory burst. The tannins need a little time to soften, but fruit and freshness make for happy drinking as soon as today. Take a splash in the Ardèche, the North Pole of the South of France.

Vintage: 2022
Grapes: Grenache Noir
Style: Red Wine
Alcohol Content: 13% ABV
Region: Rhone Valley
Sub-Region or Appellation: Ardèche
Viticulture: Certified Organic
Age of Vines: 30 and 50 years old
Soils: basalt and limestone
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: 2-3 weeks of whole cluster carbonic maceration
Aging: 8 months in stainless steel tank
Fining or Filtering: None
SO2: None

SYLVAIN BOCK :: Petit Raffut

Young Syrah from 15 yo vines grown on limestone soils in Alba la Romaine. The wine undergoes partial carbonic maceration before 10 mo of aging in used oak barrels. A younger, fresher version of Sylvain's magnificent Raffut.

Vintage: 2022
Grapes: Syrah
Style: Red Wine
Alcohol Content: 13% ABV
Region: Rhone Valley
Sub-Region or Appellation: Ardèche
Viticulture: Certified Organic
Age of Vines: 15 years old
Soils: basalt and limestone
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: Whole cluster carbonic maceration
Aging: 10 months in used oak barrels
Fining or Filtering: None
SO2: None

SYLVAIN BOCK :: À La Fraîche

Tropical meets mineral in this genre-bending blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. Exactly the type of juice to quench your thirst while cutting a path through the rugged wilds of the Ardèche.

Vintage: 2021
Grapes: Sauvignon Blanc (90%), Chardonnay (10%)
Style: White Wine
Alcohol Content: 13% ABV
Region: Rhone Valley
Sub-Region or Appellation: Ardèche
Viticulture: Certified Organic
Age of Vines:
Soils: Limestone and basalt
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: One half of the grapes are macerated for 5 days; the other half are direct-pressed before the juices are combined
Aging: 10 months in stainless steel
Fining or Filtering: None
SO2: None

SYLVAIN BOCK :: L’ Équilibriste

100% Chardonnay coming from his best plot in the Saint Philippe vineyard. A high limestone content gives this wine a piercing acidity that carries the length for days. Combining the freshness of the 2017 vintage with the lushness of the 2016, Sylvain creates an amazingly complex wine of great tension and richness.

Vintage: 2017 + 2016
Grapes: 100% Chardonnay
Style: White Wine
Alcohol Content: 12.5% ABV
Region: Rhone Valley
Sub-Region or Appellation: Ardèche
Viticulture: Certified Organic, Biodynamic
Age of Vines: 32 years
Soils: basalt and limestone clay
Elevation: 230 m
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: spontaneous fermentation
Aging: two vintages are blended and aged for 24 months in barrel
Fining or Filtering: None
SO2: None

SYLVAIN BOCK :: Fruit Jazz

This new cuvée, featuring fruit that once upon a time went into “Les Grelots,” has undertaken a slightly racier, more playful role this year. Aromas of juicy red strawberries, raspberries, and a dash of white pepper dance on the palate in this Syrah/Grenache blend. Grown on clay and limestone soils. A Herbie Hancock keytar-solo in a bottle.

Vintage: 2021
Grapes: Grenache (60%), Syrah (40%)
Style: Red Wine
Alcohol Content: 11.5% ABV
Region: Rhone Valley
Sub-Region or Appellation: Ardèche
Viticulture: Certified Organic
Age of Vines:
Soils: Clay and limestone
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: Vinified seperately; Grenache undergoes 7 days of carbonic maceration, while Syrah undergoes 10 days before pressing
Aging: Blending and aging in fiberglass
Fining or Filtering: None
SO2: None

SYLVAIN BOCK :: Reviens Gamay!

Land-meets-sea in this quixotic blend of Gamay from black basalt soils (the ancient land) and Chardonnay from chalky limestone (the ancient sea). Generous fruit coupled with a beautiful backbone of acid serves to awaken animal instincts.

Vintage: 2021
Grapes: Gamay (90%), Chardonnay (10%)
Style: Red Wine
Alcohol Content: 11.5% ABV
Region: Rhone Valley
Sub-Region or Appellation: Ardèche
Viticulture: Certified Organic
Age of Vines:
Soils: Limestone and basalt
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: 15 days of carbonic maceration
Aging: 8 months in stainless steel
Fining or Filtering: None
SO2: None

SYLVAIN BOCK :: Suck a Rock

Forty-eight yr old vines of Merlot from southwestern-facing slopes of clay and limestone that were harvested in a single morning in late August by 12 vendangeurs. Fifteen days of whole cluster carbonic maceration followed by a year in barrel. Ethereal, fresh and saline - this is nothing like your grandpa’s merlot. 1800 bottles produced.

Vintage: 2021
Grapes: Merlot
Style: Red Wine
Alcohol Content: 13.5% ABV
Region: Rhone Valley
Sub-Region or Appellation: Ardèche
Viticulture: Certified Organic, Biodynamic
Age of Vines: from a parcel 0.5 ha in size, average 40 years old
Soils: limestone clay
Elevation: 220 m
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: 15 days of whole cluster carbonic maceration followed one full month of fermentation in barrel after pressing
Aging: 12 months in barrique
Fining or Filtering: None
SO2: None

SYLVAIN BOCK :: Les Grelots

GREnache-merLOT-Syrah from limestone peppered with large chunks of basalt. Fifty yr old vines harvested, pressed and vinified separately. All grapes undergo whole cluster carbonic maceration followed by 2-3 wks of maceration and agingin in a mix of neutral barrel and stainless steel. Blended in June 2020 and bottled a month later. The result is a light & fresh, slightly funky and ever-so-lightly effervescent red wine that ends with a touch of smoke on the palate. 6000 bottles produced.

Vintage: 2020
Grapes: 55% Grenache Noir, 35% Merlot, 10% Syrah
Style: Red Wine
Alcohol Content: 13% ABV
Region: Rhone Valley
Sub-Region or Appellation: Ardèche
Viticulture: Certified Organic
Age of Vines: from a vineyard 1.5 ha in size, average 50 years old
Soils: limestone area with big basalt rocks on the northern part of the village
Elevation: 300 m
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: Each grape variety was harvested, vinified and aged apart. Grapes for each variety undergo whole cluster carbonic maceration for 2-3 weeks in mix of glass and steel vessels. The 3 varieties were blended in a tank in the end of June and bottled late July.
Aging: Merlot and Syrah spent 10 months in old wooden barrels, Grenache spends 10 mo in steel tanks
Fining or Filtering: None
SO2: None

SYLVAIN BOCK :: Neck Plus Ultra

Fifty-yr old Grenache vines from southwest-facing slopes of clay/limestone and basalt, harvested in a single mid-September morning by 12 vendangeurs. Nine days whole cluster carbonic is following by pressing. Only the best bunches are selected for this dark-fruited, lightly spiced Grenache that has the structure and acidity that allows for either immediate gratification or long aging in the bottle. 1,000 bottles produced.

Vintage: 2021
Grapes: Grenache Noir
Style: White Wine
Alcohol Content: 13.5% ABV
Region: Rhone Valley
Sub-Region or Appellation: Ardèche
Viticulture: Certified Organic, Biodynamic
Age of Vines: from a vineyard 0.5 ha in size, average 50 years old
Soils: basalt and limestone clay
Elevation: 300 m
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: 9 jours of whole cluster carbonic maceration.
Aging: 10 months in barrique
Fining or Filtering: None
SO2: None

SYLVAIN BOCK :: Raffut

Coming from the Southeastern-facing Valvignères vineyard, the syrah from these 40 yr old vines were harvested in a single morning in early September by 12 vendangeurs. After fifteen days of carbonic maceration in fiberglass tanks followed by a year of aging in old barrique, the wine is transformed into a beautifully structured red that weaves bright energy with masterful finesse. According to Sylvain, Raffut “needs the most air” to express itself fully, so those with the patience to drink the wine over the course of an hour or more can experience its full transformation into a completely different but equally impressive expression Syrah. 1600 bottles produced.

Vintage: 2021
Grapes: Syrah
Style: Red Wine
Alcohol Content: 13% ABV
Region: Rhone Valley
Sub-Region or Appellation: Ardèche
Viticulture: Certified Organic, Biodynamic
Age of Vines: from a parcel 0.5 ha in size, average 48 years old
Soils: limestone clay
Elevation: 250 m
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: 12 days of whole cluster carbonic maceration in fiberglass tank followed 17 days of fermentation in old barrique after pressing
Aging: 12 months in barrique
Fining or Filtering: None
SO2: None

SYLVAIN BOCK :: Le fruit de la patience

Sylvain’s best two barrels of Chardonnay from two separate vintages blended after long, languid fermentations (hence the fruit of patience). Stone fruit on the nose, luxury in the mouth.

Vintage: 2018 + 2019
Grapes: Chardonnay
Style: White Wine
Alcohol Content: 13% ABV
Region: Rhone Valley
Sub-Region or Appellation: Ardèche
Viticulture: Certified Organic
Age of Vines: 30 and 50 years old
Soils: basalt and limestone
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: Direct pressed
Aging: Matured in used oak barrels for 24 months
Fining or Filtering: None
SO2: None

SYLVAIN BOCK :: La P'tite Goutte

A little drop of carbonic glou glou glou Grenache to whet your appetite for what’s to come. The amuse-bouche of the lineup. 

Vintage: 2019
Grapes: Grenache Noir
Style: Red Wine
Alcohol Content: 11.5% ABV
Region: Rhone Valley
Sub-Region or Appellation: Ardèche
Viticulture: Certified Organic
Age of Vines:
Soils: Limestone and basalt
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: mainly free run juice of carbonic maceration
Aging: 8 months in fiberglass tank
Fining or Filtering: None
SO2: None

SYLVAIN BOCK :: Bascule

The “northern limit” of Carignan : delicate flowers do all the talking, while full-fledged fruit is kept to a whisper. Ethereal.

Vintage: 2019
Grapes: Carignan
Style: Red Wine
Alcohol Content: 11.5% ABV
Region: Rhone Valley
Sub-Region or Appellation: Ardèche
Viticulture: Certified Organic
Age of Vines:
Soils: Limestone and basalt
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: Two weeks of whole cluster maceration
Aging: 9 months in stainless steel
Fining or Filtering: None
SO2: None